the.com/brocade

fabric so rich it wore the weight of empires and bankrupted the lords who flaunted it

means A heavy decorative fabric woven with raised patterns, often in silk and threaded with gold or silver.

from From Spanish and Portuguese 'brocado,' itself from Italian 'broccato' — meaning 'embossed' or 'figured cloth,' built on 'brocco,' a twig or spike, which traces back to Latin 'broccus' (projecting, like a tooth). The thread of the name is the raised pattern itself: the cloth seems pricked and pushed up from beneath, as if tiny spikes lifted the design into relief.

raised threads
woven, not embroidered, despite looking stitched on
gold-laced
often woven with real gold or silver thread
byzantine guard
emperors banned commoners from owning certain silks
name origin
from Italian broccato, meaning embossed cloth
loom marathon
complex patterns took weeks on a single loom
for instance

brocade de lyon — french silk brocade from lyon, center of european brocade production since the 16th century

brocade de venecia — venetian brocade with gold thread, produced in venice during the renaissance as luxury export fabric

brocade chino — chinese silk brocade from suzhou and hangzhou, featuring traditional dragon and phoenix motifs

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