the.com/surf
riding a collapsing wall of water and calling it the most peaceful thing you've ever done
means To ride breaking waves toward shore, typically standing on a board, or to glide across something (like channels or web pages) with restless, browsing motion.
from The noun 'surf' surfaced in English around the 17th century, first describing the swell and breaking of waves on a coast — possibly an alteration of the older 'suff,' a word for the rush of the sea, and perhaps influenced by 'surge.' Its exact roots are uncertain. The verb 'to surf' the waves came later, and the playful 'surf the channels' and 'surf the web' senses rode in on the 20th century, borrowing the same image of skimming endlessly over a moving surface.
- speed limit
- top surfers exceed 30 miles per hour
- big wave
- largest surfed wave topped 86 feet
- royal origins
- Hawaiian kings rode boards over 16 feet long
- brain reward
- barrel rides trigger genuine flow-state dopamine
- ancient sport
- surfing dates back over a thousand years
pipeline masters hawaii — annual competition at oahu's pipeline reef since 1965, one of the most dangerous waves
mavericks half moon bay — big wave spot near san francisco with 60+ foot waves in winter
bells beach australia — torquay, victoria — site of the rip curl pro since 1961, longest-running pro surf contest