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Standing on water while it tries to kill you, then doing it again immediately.

means Riding a breaking wave toward shore, typically while standing on a board.

from From "surf," a 17th-century English word for the swell of the sea breaking on a shorepossibly an alteration of "suff," an older term for the rushing of water, its spelling perhaps nudged by "surge." The verb "to surf" arrived with the sport itself, which Europeans first witnessed among Polynesians, especially in Hawaii, where wave-riding (heʻe nalu) was an ancient and honored practice long before any English noun chased after it.

royal rootsHawaiian kings claimed the best waves by law
big waveSurfers have ridden waves over 80 feet tall
olympic nowDebuted at the 2020 Tokyo Games
wipeout physicsHeld under for two waves can mean death
endless summerSurfers chase swells across hemispheres year-round
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