a textile so political the British once banned it to break a nation's spine
means A patterned woolen cloth woven with crisscrossing horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors, traditionally associated with Scottish Highland clans.
from The word likely arrived through Middle French 'tertaine' or 'tiretaine,' a kind of strong cloth, itself possibly traceable to Old Spanish 'tiritaña,' a thin silk — so the name first described a fabric type, not a pattern. The distinctive checked design only later fused with the word in Scotland. The essence's politics is real history: after the 1745 Jacobite rising, the Dress Act of 1746 banned Highlanders from wearing tartan, an attempt to dismantle clan identity by outlawing what people wore on their backs.